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April 23, 2011 – Tok Junction, AK to Anchorage, AK
After an early morning bike ride and breakfast, we drove south through taiga and into gorgeous mountain and glacier country. Stopped to give our family a hug in Spenard. Our truck, Tagish Charlie, chugged up the last mountain, we shoveled a way to our door, and we unloaded truck and camper. We’re home! We traveled 13,127 miles total. Going out, we went 7,134; returning, 6,295. Snow is falling lightly….

Watson Lake, Yukon to Tok Junction, Alaska

April 21 & 22 – Watson Lake, Yukon to Whitehorse, Yukon to Tok Junction, Alaska

People in the north just are not ready for tourists! When we arrived in Whitehorse, we went straight to the visitor center, following the signs for RVs, and we found all the RV parking spots. They were all full of two cars each. There are lots of cars in Whitehorse! We parked at Peace Park and walked along the Yukon River. Some water was flowing, but big areas of ice were cluttering the shore. Downtown was chock full of people and cars. We stopped at the PO in a drug store and then ate lunch at Lil’s 50’s Diner. The music and décor took us back to our junior high days. I loved all the large murals everywhere.
Takhini Hot Spot told us they would let us camp there, so we drove out of town. They had plowed into the campground and cleared us a parking area. Fortunately, the hot springs were opening at 6 pm. (The previous two days they were closed – winter schedule.) They are lovely. I went into the pools twice before they closed at 10 pm. Les joined me once. We were able to shower there, too, and we could slip and slide across mud, ice and snow to the outhouse. Those hot pools are drained every night and refilled. The German proprietors told us that the mineral waters don’t smell because of the chemical make-up, and they call it a sweet hot spot. Nice!
Kluane Lake was covered with ice and snow. We were lucky to see a red fox, a mountain goat, some elk, a horse herd with one wearing a cowbell, and several falcons as we drove. Helping Dalgliesh solve a murder mystery while we drove, made the time pass quickly. The section of highway after Destruction Bay was destroyed by winter weather and soil conditions in that area. The US was to take over reconstruction of that area, and they have a Shakwak Project where they are trying to keep the soil conditions a more consistent temperature. It does not see to be working so far.
Buckshot Betty’s in Beaver Creek was a must stop after 2 ½ hours of creeping over bumps. Betty Boop one day and Buckshot Betty the next! Now we are back in Alaska. The Tok RV Village has cleared out a row of parking spaces. Les has gone on a bike ride.

April 19, 2011 – Highway 16 & Highway 37 & 37A – BC & Hyder, AK

Highway 16
The Yellowhead Highway.
I never yet saw a blond up here.
I saw humor in advertising:
Last Spike Pub,
Cold Smoke Drags – car racing,
Give-‘Er-a-Yank Towing,
Gas Bars, for fuel.
Aggravation Acres.
I saw loneliness:
Old building shells left rotting,
Cars and parts, fortress walls around shacks,
Single houses in endless landscape,
A coyote, sniffing and pawing logged-over land.
I saw nature’s immensity:
Skies that never end,
Skies sculpted with clouds.
Sometimes I looked around
And saw five storms.
Big sky.
I saw history evolving:
Gold, silver, copper, molybdenum
Towns named for explorers, railroad men, priests,
Fraser, Smithers, Morice,
Logging, sawmills, OMB plants
Lumber industry supporting a whole province,
A nursery, “growing your future forests.”
I saw sorrow and shame:
Three girls’ photos on a billboard
Dark eyes, raven hair.
“Girls don’t hitchhike on the
Highway of Tears” it read.
Missing or murdered.
I never did see a blond on
The Yellowhead Highway.
Highway 16, British Columbia.

Signs on the Northern Highways
Watch for bears!
Watch for elk!
Watch for moose!
Watch for badgers
Watch for horseback riders!
But all we see
Is one lone eagle
And a toothless old Indian
Sitting on a scree slope
Smiling.


Les and I detoured off the Cassiar Highway to get gas and explore. Hyder, Alaska is only a few steps from Stewart, British Columbia. A Canadian customs and a small stone storage house are all that separate the two countries. This first masonry structure in Alaska was built in 1896 by explorer Captain D.D. Gaillard of the US Army Corps of Engineers when the USA was staking claim for Alaska. The ninety-mile fiord into Stewart and Hyder is the international dividing line. Four campgrounds in the area were buried in snow, but a nice couple let us pull up in front of their closed motel, plug in, and use the cold water washroom. We got to eat dinner in the Hyder pub. The walls were plastered with money, Canadian and US. It had just opened for the season. Everything else was shut up like a ghost town. We rode our bike down to the ocean pier and small boat harbor.

Geese on snow.
Country just out of bed,
Brown and frowsy,
No seagulls scream.

April 20, 2011 – Hyder, AK to Watson Lake, Yukon Territory
The drive in and out of Stewart and Hyder is a canyon between mountains, waterfalls and avalanches along the road. Bear Glacier (pictured) has receded enough to allow a new highway along the valley.
The Cassiar Highway was quiet and mostly good traveling. Toward the northern end there were frost heaves, curves, hills, and we lost the little wheel on the front of our trailer used when we unhitch. We aren’t unhitching…. We turned back down the Alcan for 14 miles to get gas in Watson Lake. Les and I took a partial tour of the sign forest. As the trees come down, we plant signs! We’re staying here tonight, a block from that forest.

Seattle to Vanderhoof, BC

April 17 – 18, 2011 – Seattle, WA to Vanderhoof, BC
Our first day in Canada was railroads and tunnels as we moved along the Fraser River up highway 1. We made it to Cache Creek, BC and camped alone in a RV park that really wasn’t quite ready. Les and I had a cozy time in our camper watching Jesse’s video, “Right Brain/Left Brain.” The water froze during the night. We climbed a high bank and were walking on the high desert. They call this part of British Columbia the “Arizona of the North.” Every campground promises shade in their advertisements, but we want sun! In the morning we scraped the frost off the seat and I rode the electric bike around the trails on the desert.
Highway 97 follows the 19th century Cariboo Waggon Road (not misspelled). There was a badger crossing sign, so I looked for that animal I’ve never met, but no luck. We did see a couple of pairs of swans.
We love this road. The towns are called “70 Mile House,” and “83 Mile House,” and “100 Mile House.” We wondered about the word miles when everything is measured in kilometers. Then Les remembered that when BC was New Caldonia, they used the English measurements, so the old Cariboo Waggon Road was measured in miles. This road was the path to the gold mining areas.
It is fun driving at 100. Hmmm. Tim Horton is getting to be a friend of ours here in BC – his coffee is pretty good! We like the other town names, though they are not as exotic as Washington state names. How about towns called Horsefly and Likely? We’re learning to count out the money, loonies and toonies (spelling?).
Williams Lake had a great visitor center made by two log craftsmen. Les is standing by a modern totem pole in there. The tree in the middle of the building is a cedar that was 700 years old.
We passed the “Devil’s Palisades,” a bank of basalt columns. I wonder why the devil is associated with those? In California they are called “Devil’s Post Pile.”
The town of Quesnel (pronounced kwa-NEL) had fire hydrants painted to portray historic characters. This one was beside the newspaper office. We saw miles and miles of piled logs and many pulp mills and wood manufacturing plants for particleboard and OSB board.
Now here we are in Vanderhoof. There’s one other camper here, and the boys were out riding their bikes with their dad through the snow patches. We rode out on the road for a while rather that popping snow wheelies.
A last note: I forgot to mention Jesse and Christina’s neighbor Steve. He comes around when folks are gardening and gets as close as a foot away! He’s black and shiny and definitely a trickster!

Ballard, Seattle, WA

April 15 & 16, 2011 – Ballard, Seattle, WA
Jesse and Christina live in a neighborhood of bungalow houses, each unique. There are little roundabouts at intersections, and these are decorated with neighborhood gardens. We spent a lot of time walking and walking around the neighborhood, looking at and admiring houses. Les got busy drawing plans for Jesse & Christina’s Ballard Bump-Out addition, and they were looking at house colors, entries, bay windows and peaked roofs.
I was able to swim twice at the local pool and ride the electric bike, trying to get out some travel kinks. We had a couple of dinners out. Tonight we went to a dinner/movie at Cinebarre. The wait staff has a routine for coming through and taking orders, even during the movie. We celebrated Jesse’s birthday and watched “Lincoln Lawyer.” (good) Christina has made a rain garden, and I got to help her plant some flowers around their house.
After breakfast tomorrow we will head into Canada. Our route: highways 5, 1, 97, 16, 37 to Watson Lake eventually. Out camper is all ready for the next leg with repairs and restocking of supplies. North to Alaska!

April 13 & 14

April 13 & 14 – Grants Pass, OR to Sutherlin, OR, to The Dalles, OR, to Seattle, WA
I got on my iPad early and located our friends Frank & Connie, so we stopped at their Circle Star Ranch in Sutherlin, OR. The coffee pot was on, the horse was awake and ready to eat, and Frank and Connie’s combined talents were remodeling the house beautifully.
After an all too quick visit, we went on through sheep country, vineyards and farms to Portland where we turned into the Columbia River Gorge. It was pouring rain, but we took part of the scenic highway and stopped at Multnomah Falls. There are many waterfalls along the Gorge, and this is the highest. We decided to get an espresso at the outside kiosk, and suddenly it began to hail and the wind rushed in. Les and I grabbed onto the poles of the “easy-up” tent and tried to hold it down. I thought we might fly! Les’ market experience got the tent down, and our coffees were on the house. There was at least an inch of hail on the ground.
Cousins Bill and Vickie welcomed us to their hillside home in The Dalles. Such gracious hosts they are, and we were soon engaged in good conversation. We enjoyed dinner at the Hiway House. Les ordered wild king salmon from Alaska on a Caesar salad.
We watched the Columbia River from Bill and Vickie’s home. A tugboat pushing barges moved up the river, and we saw it disappear into the locks at The Dalles bridge. Vickie took us to the Discovery Center where we sampled the history and geology of the area. Then we headed north with promises to meet again soon.
I think we are snow magnets. As we climbed up Snoqualmie Pass, it began snowing heavy flakes. We met Jesse at the top, and we all began the descent into Seattle rush hour traffic. With a sigh of relief, we reached Jesse and Christina’s house in Ballard.

Northspur,CA to Grants Pass, OR

April 12, 2011 - Northspur, CA to Grants Pass, OR
Settling in for the night, Les is reading news to me about the California man who died in the recent tsunami. He was just washed up on the shore near here. Well, we washed up at this campground, but not without a scolding from the owner. The sign-in said we could not use the bathrooms until morning since we arrived after 7 pm (7:30 it was).
I told Les, “Don’t pay!” We snagged another long-term “camper” to get the code, but he didn’t know the women’s secret numbers. It turned out we were allowed in with access to bathrooms and internet, plus a cut rate. “We can’t stay unless we can use the bathroom!” I called.
On another note, we have noticed that people live in these RV parks, month after month. I wonder if that is a sign of the struggling economy?
We left Northspur at 8:30, but didn’t get our trailer hooked up and out of Willets until two and a half hours later. That road was longer leaving than coming in. I guess since I rode in with Emily, I didn’t notice. Hope it’s not too hard on her back, bouncing like that.
Our trip again covered beautiful terrain, up highway 101 and over on 199. We saw redwoods, clear green and blue rivers, Pacific waves dashing up the beach around erratic rocks, and winding scenic roads where elk lounged in fields. We went along the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway of the Redwoods National and State Park, and hiked in to see the Corkscrew Tree and the Big Tree. We passed a grove sponsored by my great uncle, Alan Matthew.
Tomorrow we will try to reach the Columbia River Gorge and my second cousin Bill and wife Vickie.

Northspur, CA

April 10 & 11 – Northspur, CA
You have really missed it if you haven’t seen the Skunk Train leave Northspur – “All Aboard!” Around the depot area are picnic tables and little open-air stands that sell food, souvenirs, and drinks. Bill, Emily, Les and I didn’t get on the Skunk Train. Instead we waved to the multinational passengers, and we began our walk along the tracks beside the Noyo River. I almost stepped on a water dog or newt. Its dark back hid a bright orange belly. We also saw a deer, duck, and a small grey mole with a pink snout. Our picnic destination was the “Jesus Tree.” There is a strange explanation involving hippies for its naming, but whatever, it is majestic, and I could not begin to get my arms around it or see the top! Bill and Emily showed us how the next generation of redwoods grow up in a circle around the prior generation, and we could see how huge some of the great-grandfather trees were!
Bill and Emily are staying at the family cabin on the darker side of the hill. It is really historic and wears its age well. We are very cozy and comfortable with the wood fire going and warm company. The trees loom over and around, dripping mist in the morning.
We drove around to the other side of the hill to see Bill & Emily’s own building projects in progress. In their building of the cabin and house with large garage, they are utilizing lumber that they have harvested off their own land. They employ solar power. It was sunny on that side of the hill. Some meadows and their orchard let in the light. The orchard has all kinds of fruit trees coming into blossom. On the hills, they have planted coastal sequoias that they are raising in a nursery at the family cabin. There are big redwoods on their side, too, as well as lovely old oaks and madrone trees.
The guys have made a campfire now beside an outside tented table by the family cabin. Emily is cooking caribou ribs, and it smells delicious. We sit up late around the fire. The time together has been special, but tomorrow we will head north.

April 8 and 9, 2011 - Mariposa, CA

April 8 & 9, 2011 – Mariposa, CA
Lake Tahoe – the pine trees are showering us with snow as the sun shines. I can’t take my eyes off the action. A new kind of snowing for me!
We decide to take the scenic route and drive down highway 49 toward Mariposa. The scenes keep changing as we wind around hills, dip down into valleys, and then climb the narrow road switchbacks. One large area is like a park – there is no underbrush, only trees and green, green grass. Back to the sagebrush, then to mountain flowers, on and on we twist and turn. Years ago, the Chinese, who were no longer employed in the gold mines, built rock walls. They worked for 25 cents a day. We went through Calaveras County and saw some giant frogs, and I think Mark Twain would grimace and croak if he saw what became of his tale. John C. Fremont had some gold mines in this area and built a fort to keep out the claim-jumpers.
At last we arrive at cousin Betty and Jim’s home, a gentle hill bouldered with large granite outcroppings. There are some sheep, a lamb, two lovely dogs, and four wonderful people. Jim’s sister Lois is here visiting from Oahu along with her husband Tubbs. Betty and I are soon talking family history, chicken is grilling, and good conversation begins.
After an early morning walk to the neighborhood bridge and lively creek, we enjoy fruit and coffee and then take off for Yosemite Park. There is still snow on the giant trees, spraying down from their heights, and many waterfalls explode out of the giant granite cliffs. Ice breaks off the rocks and becomes frazzle in the creeks. Sugar pines and sequoias loom overhead. Everything looks over-sized and majestic!
The Ahwahnee Hotel matches the majesty. Huge logs and hand-hewn metal strapping form columns and beams of the high ceiling. The dining room windows are tall and allow views of the surrounding scenes.
Our evening is filled with various activities (and Betty’s strawberry pie!) as we all prepare to head out in different directions: Alaska, Hawaii, and a Lake Tahoe vacation for Jim and Betty.

Making our way to Mariposa, CA

April 6 & 7, 2011 - across Utah & Nevada, into California and back into Nevada
At last I saw real working cowboys on horses driving a small herd of cattle across the highway in Utah! Speaking of 4-footed friends, there were two pumpkin-colored mules at the KOA campground in Ely, NV. They were young and frisky, and their owner said “hard to catch!” Although we saw lots of signs for elk, cattle, and horses on the open range, we saw only a few horses and one lone antelope.
Call it the loneliest highway in America.
We crossed it, eyes open,
Together.
Endless sagebrush hills,
Vast valley basins
Circled by mountain ranges:
Reveille, Monte Cristo, Excelsior,
White, Last Chance, Sierras, and more.
One hundred miles, one hundred sixty-four miles
With no service but a red gas can in the truck.
Mountain pass upon mountain pass
Six thousand, seven thousand, eight thousand feet,
We creep up to see the next vista.
Out West, the Earth shows its underpants.
Limestone pitted with caves and holes,
Black lava piles like torn lace,
Grey rock jumbles looming high,
White streaked cliffs,
Red boulders.
Like the bones of Earth undressed,
Where else can you see this?
Wondering eyes widen,
Exclaim its raw beauty.

Tonight we are in Minden, NV at Silver City Resort. It’s hard to find a campground here at this time of year, so I have relented and we’ve gone to RV parks. It’s in the high 20’s, and many roads are closed. We had to go south and then north, and then tomorrow we’ll go south again to see my cousin Betty in Mariposa, CA!

Frisco, CO to Moab, UT

April 4, 2011 – Frisco, CO to Moab, UT
The new day looked more promising. We found out that a car had struck a trucker, who was putting on chains. With other minor accidents and the snow, the road had been closed. Sad.
In Glenwood Springs, we got new wiper blades, filled up our gas & propane, washed the car, shopped for groceries, and YES!, we went to the hot springs. The water was salty and hot. There are actually over 15 elements in that water. The pools are big, and it was wonderful after our cold night.
In Fruita, CO, we visited a dinosaur museum. The smallest herbivore dinosaur is named for that town. There were paleontologists working on the fossils and dinosaur bones there behind a picture window.
We arrived at the Arches National Park visitor center in the evening and planned our next day. The campground there was full, do we drove up alongside the Colorado River to Hal Canyon and pulled in for the night. After a bike ride and dinner, we sat on a bench beside the river and watched the flotsam drift rapidly by, and then the stars came out.

April 5, 2011 – Moab, UT
Windows are some of the arches at the national park. Our hike led us around them, among arches and fantastic columns and red rocks that are ready to topple. We walked the marked trails and over the slick rock, learning from our guide about the geology, the wonders above and below ground.
After a lunch in Moab, we are resting so we can spend the evening in the park. We are settled in Canyonlands Campground within the town, and I’m going swimming!
The evening was beautiful in Arches National Park. Soft light brought out the beauty in the rocks. We hiked down the Devils Garden Trail to see Tunnel Arch, Pine Tree Arch and ultra long Landscape Arch. In the Amphitheater by the campground, we joined lots of children for a talk on midget rattlers, black widows, and giant hairy scorpions. I watched to moon come up by the arches. It looked like a hand holding its dark self. We stopped in the dark to see the stars unobstructed by light pollution.

Springfield, MO to Frisco, CO

April 1, 2011 - Springfield, MO to Elkhart, KS

Kansas

Oil wells nodding,
Some eagerly and
Some slowly considering
an unheard comment
from below.

Purple tractor truck,
Passing on wet highway 400.
A rainbow
In its wake.

Fields,
Some burning black,
Waiting…
Some alfalfa-hope green.

Windmills
White, tech-stretching in rows.
Windmills
Silver, veterans stunned still,
Ever ready.

Wind
pulling dirt across windows,
Tug-of-war with
sun’s warmth.

A lone tree stands naked,
Blushing never,
Waiting
Spring?

April 2, 2011 - Elkhart, KS to Colorado Springs, CO
In 1937 a dust storm came blasting down on Elkhart, Kansas, a huge black cloud that covered everything. Mike and Mary took us to the Morton County Historical Museum. It is extensive. I thought the dust storm photos were most impressive, the pioneer ladies’ photos showed nary a smile, the model of a sod house was cozy and had a tumbleweed Christmas tree, and Mary and I took our photo in a mirror on the horse-drawn hearse. We could go there often and see something new every time!
As Les and I drove through the Cimarron National Grasslands, we saw an antelope standing stately in the wind. The wind is incessant, and it comes steadily from the south.
Doug & Ginni’s in Colorado Springs was our next stop. Their home houses an amazing collection of art, not the least of which are Ginni’s creations. Doug toured us through the large condo full of memorabilia and treasures. He has created a wonderful master bath and dressing rooms on the top floor. Ginni’s studio is there, too. After a home-cooked meal, we were delighted by the arrival of Kit and baby Gwen and little dog Roxanne. Gwen soon made herself at home with her grandparents, pulling out her books and toys. It was especially fun to see Kit as father since I took care of him for a while when he was a baby.
That night there was a tremendous windstorm, but Les and I did not awaken. Doug and Ginni moved to the basement while we slept blissfully on.

April 3, 2011 – Colorado Springs, CO to Frisco, CO
Before breakfast, I rode my electric bike all around Hill Circle. The sun was shining. Doug and Ginni took us to The Garden of the Gods, such a gift in their backyard! As we said goodbye, Ginni gave me a hand-dyed scarf, earth colors and emerald that she had created. We headed north toward some black, black clouds.
Soon the warnings came, highway 70 is closed. Snow began to fall. We inched forward. We passed a herd of elk. In Idaho Springs, a gas attendant reported that the Eisenhower Tunnel was now open, but soon we joined a long line of cars and trucks at a standstill. Our talking book kept us entertained for an hour or so. When we did go, it was congested. Cars and trucks began to be stuck on hills. We threaded the needle and got off at the first exit, Frisco. We called Jesse, and he knew exactly where we were at a KFC. Hotels were full, so we stacked on the blankets and slept in a parking lot.